Dermatologists and skin experts weigh in on the right steps to tackle acne
Getting breakouts under control can be a true pain. With a million and one skincare products available to treat acne, it can be hard to figure out which picks will clear your skin, and in what order to actually use them.
“Those with acne-prone skin should look for non-comedogenic products,” explains Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD, a board-certified cosmetic and medical dermatologist at the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York and a Clinical Instructor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College. “But don’t trust everything you see on social media—plenty of products are touted as non-comedogenic when they may very well promote breakouts.” It’s best to look for product recommendations from trusted dermatologists and experienced beauty editors.
Below, we’ve rounded up the best skincare routine for acne—including dermatologist-recommended products, when to use them, how often to apply them, and what to avoid.
Best Cleanser: CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser
A great skincare routine for acne always starts with an effective and gentle cleanser. The CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser features salicylic acid to exfoliate dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores. You can also find hydrating and calming ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide in this formula.
“CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser is a great drugstore choice for mild acne,” explains Dr. Murphy-Rose. “Salicylic acid cleans deep within pores to dissolve acne-promoting oils and sebum.” This cleanser is non-irritating with a well-balanced concentration of salicylic acid in a gentle cleanser.
While we love how effective this product is in cleansing the skin and treating acne, it might be too harsh for folks with very sensitive skin.
Best Serum: Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum
Celebrity esthetician Sofie Pavitt is best known for her work in treating folks with mild to severe acne. Her not-so-secret ingredient that works to clear pores, smooth the skin, treat hyperpigmentation, and offer a gentle glow? Mandelic acid.
The Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum is the first product in her eponymous line. It contains mandelic acid, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol to gently exfoliate the skin while hydrating your face simultaneously. We were amazed by how smooth our skin felt after using this product for a few days.
The downsides are that it costs $54 for a one fluid ounce bottle, and it’s currently only available on her website. You can apply this product after cleansing and toning, morning or night.
Best Cream: Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment
The Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% is our favorite acne cream for multiple reasons—it’s well tolerated, treats active breakouts and prevents new ones from forming, and can be found at your local drugstore.
Adapalene is a specialized retinoid that is used for acne treatment—it is better tolerated than tretinoin. Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% is FDA-approved and dermatologist-tested, and can be used once a day. Jaimie DeRosa, a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon and founder and lead facial plastic surgeon of DeRosa Center Plastic Surgery & Med Spa in Boston and Palm Beach recommends this pick to her patients as an over-the-counter retinoid option. “I like this formula because it is water-based, and, like other retinoids, helps to normalize skin cell turnover, thereby reducing clogged pores and inflammation,” she explains.
It’s best to use a retinoid at night, after you’ve cleansed, toned, and applied your serums. You can apply a moisturizer on top of the Differin gel at night to prevent excessive dryness.
Retinoids do have the tendency to cause irritation sometimes, so use with caution if you are very sensitive. Additionally, you should potentially expect some purging to happen at the beginning stages of using Differin gel—it might get worse before it gets better.
Best Patches: Peace Out Salicylic Acid Acne Healing Dots
The Peace Out Acne Dots are beloved by dermatologists and aestheticians. “Acne dots are an ingenious way to have targeted treatment on an active breakout that can be worn during the day,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “Peace Out Acne Dots are great in that they contain both acne-fighting 0.5% salicylic acid and a vitamin A derivative (retinyl acetate), as well as soothing aloe.”
Celebrity aesthetician Joshua Ross of SkinLab likes to recommend these patches to his clients as well. “[The Peace Out Acne Dots] employ hydrocolloid technology that helps extract impurities and guards against external elements,” he explains.
You can use pimple patches during the day or overnight. It’s best to apply them right after you cleanse your skin—layering them on top of a serum or moisturizer might make them less effective or prevent them from sticking to your face.
Unlike some other acne patches on the market, these only come in one size. So, if you have a cluster of breakouts, you will need to apply a bunch of dots, rather than a large hydrocolloid strip.
Best Drugstore: Clean & Clear Advantage Spot Treatment
Some of the best acne-fighting products can be found at your local drugstore. The Clean & Clear Advantage Acne Spot Treatment is one of them. This pick uses multiple, well-studied ingredients to help minimize breakouts.
“This is another tried and true spot-treatment option that is great for targeted acne treatment,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “Its oil-free formulation has 2% salicylic acid (BHA) that helps to unblock pores and witch hazel that helps to soothe irritated skin associated with active acne break-outs.”
Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, a dermatologist at Entière Dermatology, recommends Clean & Clear Advantage Acne Spot Treatment as a great drugstore option in our best drugstore acne treatments story. “Salicylic acid is a common over-the-counter product that breaks up dead skin cells to clear out blackheads,” says Dr. Levin. “More importantly, salicylic acid is a lipid-loving acid and, therefore, concentrates in pores, since pores are connected to our oil glands.”
Because this is a spot treatment, you can use this pick after you cleanse, tone, and add your serum. While you can use a spot treatment during the day, it might be best to use this pick at night, as it might not bode well under makeup.
While this pick is a great option for those with mild to moderate acne, salicylic acid might not be a strong enough ingredient for folks with more severe acne. Consider trying a product with benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid if you find that salicylic acid doesn’t do much for your breakouts.
Best Spot Treatment: Mario Badescu Drying Lotion
An oldie but a goodie, the Mario Badescu Drying Lotion works overnight to treat active breakouts. It’s our overall best spot treatment on the market. “This drying lotion has been popular for a long time for a good reason—it works,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “I recommend it to my patients for targeted spot treatment because it helps to treat pimples overnight while not overly drying the skin.”
This formula has two active anti-acne ingredients, salicylic acid and sulfur, as well as calamine, which helps to calm irritated skin. True to its name, one of the downsides of this product is that it can be a bit too drying for some skin types. Additionally, you can’t really use this product during the day underneath makeup, as it leaves a light pink dot on the skin. It’s best to use it at night before bed, after cleansing and toning.
Best for Acne Scars: Murad InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment
The Murad InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment is our favorite pick for treating acne scars because it works to treat all types of acne scarring. The formula contains a blend of antioxidants, silicones, and salicylic acid to smooth out the surface of the skin and lightly exfoliate for even texture and tone.
“One of the things that is tough for those who suffer from acne is that, once the breakouts are gone, you may be left with scarring and hyperpigmentation,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “Murad InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment is a great option to help reduce scarring by working to reduce discoloration/redness and help to improve the quality and texture of the scarred skin. It is well tolerated even by the most sensitive skin, too.”
This product is a bit on the pricier side, at $56 per bottle. Additionally, some folks have complained of the formula being too harsh for their face. If you have sensitive skin, you should do a patch test on your wrist or neck before applying this to your face, to see how your skin reacts.
Best Moisturizer: Murad Clarifying Oil-Free Water Gel
There are many moisturizers for acne-prone skin available on the market, but our favorite is definitely the Murad Clarifying Oil-Free Water Gel. This formula contains salicylic acid to lightly exfoliate, hyaluronic acid to hydrate, and Korean red pine extract to help balance your skin’s microbiome.
Dr. DeRosa likes recommending this pick to her patients with acne-prone skin. “The Murad Clarifying Oil-Free Water Gel is popular with my patients as it is oil-free and not greasy when it goes on,” she explains. “The combination of hyaluronic acid and BHA salicylic acid helps to keep the skin hydrated while exfoliating dead skin cells that can block pores, helping to clear up the skin and reduce acne-producing bacteria.”
Not only is this pick expensive at $49 per bottle, but we notice that it takes a while to sink into the skin after application. Make sure you give it a minute or two before applying your sunscreen and makeup on top of this moisturizer.
Best Sunscreen: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
The EltaMD Facial Sunscreen SPF 46 is our overall favorite sunscreen for acne-prone skin and is a fan favorite amongst many dermatologists. “This is my absolute favorite sunscreen on the market, as it goes on like a moisturizer, not like a thick white paste,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “It not only protects against UVA and UVB rays with its transparent zinc oxide, but also contains niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and lactic acid to help combat pigmentation and breakouts while providing hydration.”
Dr. Murphy-Rose is another dermatologist who likes this pick. “EltaMD is one of dermatologists’ most favorite sunscreen brands,” she explains. “I frequently recommend UV Clear to my acne-prone patients for excellent sun protection that won’t promote breakouts.” Sunscreen should be the last step in your morning skincare routine, before applying primer or foundation for makeup.
Some folks have complained of adverse skin reactions to this product. Always do a patch test before applying to your face. Another downside of this product is that it costs $39 per bottle, which isn’t extremely expensive, but also isn’t exactly affordable either.
Best for Back Acne: Paula’s Choice Weightless Body Treatment 2% BHA
We love the Paula’s Choice Weightless Body Treatment for treating back acne because it contains two percent salicylic acid to slough off dead skin and prevent clogged pores on your back. “This body treatment is great to help treat back acne, as it has two percent salicylic acid and plant extracts that help to exfoliate dead skin cells, unblock pores, and soften the skin,” explains Dr. DeRosa. “With chamomile, vitamin E, and green tea extract, this pick is also soothing for inflamed acne-prone skin, too.”
This product is great for treating both back acne and keratosis pilaris, but it doesn’t have the most pleasant smell. If you can get over the paint primer smell, then this would be a great pick for you.
You can use this product in the morning or at night. It’s probably best to apply it right after you’ve showered and dried off, when your pores are open and ready to absorb skincare products.
Best Mask: Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment
Weekly face masks are a great way to treat your skin and relax in the process. The Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment is a multitasker that’s beloved by Dr. DeRosa. “This pick contains acne-fighting ingredients including AHA lactic acid and BHA salicylic acid, which chemically work to loosen the connections between dead skin cells, allowing them to be exfoliated without physical irritation,” she explains. “This mask also contains fruit enzymes, including papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin, which also help to break down dead skin cells that can clog pores and cause acne flare-ups.” With soothing ingredients, including aloe vera, this mask also helps to calm irritated, inflamed skin, too.
It’s important to note that some folks might not bode well with a physical exfoliant like this mask. If you have very sensitive skin, you might want to opt for a chemical exfoliant instead.
Final Verdict
Acne isn’t a one size fits all problem and therefore needs a customized approach. However, there are ingredients, products, and steps that are a place to start for anyone suffering with the condition. A daily cleanser with salicylic acid, such as CeraVe SA Cleanser is a top dermatologist recommendation. Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% is another dermatologist favorite product that’s available over the counter. If you’re looking for a spot treatment, Mario Badescu Drying Lotion is for you—it’s dermatologist and beauty editor-loved for being effective and gentle on the skin.
How We Tested
The first step to creating the best skincare routine for acne was tapping our expert networks. We interviewed four skincare experts, including a plastic surgeon, dermatologists, and aesthetician to better understand acne and how to treat it. We asked for their recommendations on products as well as ingredients to look for. After consulting our expert panel, we considered Byrdie editor-loved products—the ones that we had full first person reviews of our experiences and results to pull from, to give our final recommendations.
What to Look For in a Skincare Routine for Acne
Acne-Fighting Ingredients
One of the most important things to look for when building your skincare routine for acne is to incorporate ingredients that have been studied and proven to target acne. “I like to keep things simple, so my recommendation for a great acne routine is to use effective but gentle products that help to exfoliate and loosen dead skin cells that can clog pores and kill P. acne bacteria,” explains Dr. DeRosa. These ingredients include benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinoids, sulfur, or mandelic acid. You can find salicylic acid in Paula’s Choice Weightless Body Treatment, retinoids in Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% , and mandelic acid in Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum.
Soothing Formulas
While you do need to look for products that contain ingredients to treat acne, you don’t want to go overboard with exfoliation and irritate the skin barrier. “Take care not to use multiple products that exfoliate skin as the combination can be too harsh and problem-causing,” suggests Dr. Murphy-Rose. It’s best to use products that contain ceramides, niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and other skin-soothing ingredients.
“Look for acne products that work to soothe redness and inflammation, and help reduce any post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that may occur,” suggests Dr. DeRosa. “Using a combination of products will give you the opportunity to target all of these important parts of an effective anti-acne skincare routine.”
Lightweight Products
Sometimes, heavy formulas can clog pores and cause more breakouts. You want to look for lightweight formulas that are more water or gel-based, such as Murad Clarifying Oil-Free Water Gel. “It’s best to use a light face moisturizer developed for acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Murphy-Rose. “If the moisturizer comes in a jar, it is probably too heavy (with a few exceptions).”
FAQ
How do you build a skincare routine for acne?
When you’re starting off building a skincare routine for acne, you will want to think about adding products individually to make sure your skin tolerates each. “I would start with a gentle cleanser that helps to remove excess oils, dirt, and makeup without stripping the skin of necessary oils,” suggests Dr. DeRosa. “Using harsh products that strip the skin of necessary oils can stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more oil and worsen acne breakouts.”
If you are finding that you still cannot calm down stubborn acne breakouts after following a good skincare routine for several weeks, you may want to seek the advice of a skincare professional to help guide you.
What does comedogenic mean?
Comedogenic means simply that something has the tendency to cause breakouts (both whiteheads and blackheads) by blocking the skin’s pores. “This is why for acne-prone skin, you want to make sure you’re using non-comedogenic products,” says Dr. DeRosa.
