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You probably already know that retinol addresses a wide range of skin-care issues including, but not limited to, acne, dark spots, dullness, enlarged pores, and fine lines, but this powerful skin-care ingredient often remains shrouded in mystery. Not today, though. We’re breaking down everything you need to know about retinol before you dive into the best retinol serums on the market.
To kick things off, everyone can benefit from retinol — even those with sensitive skin or breakout-prone skin. (More on that later.) “Retinol is great for fine lines and wrinkles, acne, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and collagen production,” David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City says, calling it a “rockstar ingredient.”
Because retinol is so potent, the golden rule is to start low and slow. Most dermatologists recommend applying a pea-sized dollop, two or three nights a week, and ramping us as if your skin builds up tolerance.
What are the most common types of retinol found in skin-care products?
First things first, retinol is not a catch-all term. “Retinoids is the general term that includes all the vitamin A derivatives both natural and synthetic,” Caroline Chang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Rhode Island Dermatology Institute, previously said. The topical retinoids most commonly used in skin care are retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde.
As for their benefits, “[retinoids] are keratolytics, which means they increase skin cell turnover and are known to stimulate collagen synthesis,” Sheila Farhang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Avant Dermatology & Aesthetics, previously explained.
Whereas retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin) is only found in prescription formulas, retinol is the most common vitamin A derivative that pops up in over-the-counter (OTC) skin-care products — and it’s arguably just as effective. “There’s a lot of literature showing that while retinol is more gentle than retinoic acid, biochemically it does exactly the same thing — it may just take longer to see results,” Dana Sachs, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School, previously told Allure.
You might be surprised to learn this but retinaldehyde (often referred to as retinal) is actually closer in efficacy to retinoic acid than retinol is, as “[retinal] can be directly converted to retinoic acid and is more stable than retinol,” Dr. Kim explains.
On the other hand, there are also a group of retinyl esters that are gentler on the skin, but less effective. “Products that are designed for sensitive skin typically have retinyl palmitate (a type of pro-retinol,) but because it has to be converted to retinol before it becomes retinoic acid (the active form), it is not as potent as retinol,” Dr. Kim explains.
What concentrations do you recommend for patients just starting out with retinoids?
Even for beginners, there’s no one correct dosage. “If they have sensitive skin, I typically start them on 0.25% and have them use it twice a week,” Dr. Kim recommends. “If they have regular skin, I start them on 0.5% twice weekly, and if they have really oily skin, I typically start them on a prescription retinoic acid twice weekly right away.”
In terms of incorporating retinoids into your serums versus creams, it’s up to your personal preferences. However, some dermatologists, including Dr. Chang, prefer retinol serums followed by a soothing moisturizer to minimize any potential side effects such as irritation, dry skin, or flaking.
What active ingredients should be avoided when using retinol?
Dr. Kim cautions against using any exfoliating acids, including AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid), BHA (salicylic acid), and PHA, as they can further irritate the skin. However, if you’d like to incorporate both without causing irritation and inflammation, try alternating days between the two types of formulations.
What cannot be avoided, at all costs, is sunscreen. Even though you should be wearing sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every single day (rain or shine; indoors or outdoors), retinol “makes your skin more easily prone to burning,” as Dr. Chang noted.
How often should you be using a retinol serum?
In an ideal world, every day, according to Dr. Kim. But for those who can’t, he recommends two to three times a week. “For patients trying to improve and target hyperpigmentation, I have them alternate gentle acids and retinol every other day.”
If you have sensitive skin, try the dermatologist-approved sandwiching technique. All it takes is a layer of moisturizer before and after your retinol of choice to soften the blow, so to speak. And fret not: “Studies have shown that this base layer of moisturizer does not dilute or reduce the efficacy of the retinoid, but instead helps with tolerability,” says New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD.
As for morning-time care, while you don’t need to reach for a cleanser to wash off retinol products, Dr. Kim recommends that everyone wash their face with lukewarm (not hot) water in the morning to rinse away sweat accumulated while sleeping.
Does retinol help with acne?
In short, yes. Because retinoids boost cell turnover, they do a fantastic job at unclogging pores and targeting uneven texture. “Higher levels of retinol (0.5% or higher) or prescription-strength retinoic acid are the most effective at making the biggest difference,” Dr. Kim notes, adding that these concentrations will also “improve hyperpigmentation and acne scars.”
Without further ado, here are 16 face serums laced with retinol, as recommended by dermatologists and Allure editors, that you should consider incorporating into your skin-care routine.
Allure-Approved Award Winner: Shani Darden Retinol Reform
Dr. Kim recommends this gentle option, the Best of Beauty-winning Shani Darden Retinol Reform, to patients with sensitive skin — particularly those “who can’t tolerate prescription retinoic acid or more robust, over-the-counter retinol.” He recommends applying two pumps to the face and one to the neck, as well as following up with a calming serum and/or moisturizer for best practices. With most retinoids you might experience some initial tingling but Dr. Kim assures us that your skin will become tolerant to the formula quickly and there won’t be any flakiness or redness in the meantime.
Best Range of Retinol Concentrations: SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex
If your budget allows for it, SkinMedica’s Age Defense Retinol Complex (which is available in 0.25, 0.5, and 1.0 concentrations) won’t disappoint. Spiked with antioxidant-rich ingredients to minimize irritation, including niacinamide, soybean oil, squalane, and vitamin E, this hydrating formula is “a great way to bridge to a prescription like tretinoin, and patients like how gentle they are,” Dr. Kim attests. These serums also work well for treating [the appearance of] fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, scars, as well as boosting collagen production, he adds.
Dr. Kim recommends patients start off with twice-a-week application for the first two weeks, and slowly ramp up the frequency over the course of five to seven weeks for best results.
Best Retinol Serum for Sensitive Skin: Peach & Lily Retinal for All Renewing Serum
If you haven’t heard of retinal (a.k.a. retinaldehyde) and have sensitive skin, you’re going to want to listen up. Peach & Lily’s Retinal for All Renewing Serum has 0.1% retinal, a derivative of retinol that the brand claims is up to 20 times more effective than its counterpart. Studies have also shown that retinal is tolerated very well by patients with less irritation and even increased epidermal thickness.
But what’s especially key about this formula is the concoction of soothing ingredients present to cushion any irritation. At the helm is 0.3% ectoin, a hydrating emollient that is often used as a buffering agent in skin-care formulas. You’ll also find heartleaf and perilla extracts, two beloved K-beauty ingredients that visibly soothe and reduce redness, as well as ceramide and hyaluronic acid to reduce dryness and fortify the skin barrier.
Best K-Beauty Innovation: Iope Retinol Expert 0.1%
All you need is a rice-sized dose of Iope’s Retinol Expert 0.1% in any areas of concern, especially those that are prone to forming wrinkles (the eyes, lips, and center of forehead) for smoother, plumper skin with continued use. Pure retinol is accompanied by panthenol, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and shea butter to curtail signs of redness and inflammation. We’d be remiss to not mention the innovative packaging: The tube is equipped with a three-stage oxygen barrier system that’ll guard the retinol (which tends to be unstable) against oxidation by way of light and air.
Best Retinol Serum for Acne: CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
CeraVe’s Resurfacing Retinol Serum is a Best of Beauty Award winner that was an easy pick for this list. A favorite of Claire Chang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, this fragrance-free serum “can help improve post-acne marks while resulting in more even skin tone and texture.” How so? “It combines the powerful effects of retinol, which increases skin turnover, niacinamide, a powerful antioxidant that calms and brightens the skin, and ceramides to repair and hydrate the skin,” Dr. Chang explains.
Plus, the encapsulated retinol in this affordable drugstore formula means that it’s released over time and therefore should be much more tolerable for sensitive skin.
Best Retinol Stick: Peace Out Retinol Face Stick
The convenience of the Peace Out Retinol Face Stick speaks volumes. Packed into this easy-to-use stick is an effective 3% blend of encapsulated retinol to soften fine lines, a blend of papaya and pumpkin enzymes to minimize pores, and bakuchiol to even out texture. We suggest taking it on the go with you for touch-ups throughout the day.
Best Retinol Serum for Mature Skin: RoC Derm Correxion Fill + Treat Serum
RoC’s Derm Correxion Fill + Treat Serum gets an A+ for convincing us to skip a round of filler or even botox. Its three forms of hyaluronic acid immediately make a noticeable difference to plump up lines, while retinol helps create a smooth base — hence, why it earned a 2022 Best of Beauty Award.
Best “Clean” Retinol Serum: Youth to the People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum
Made with 0.15% stabilized retinal, the Youth to the People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum is a great “clean” pick in this category. True to its name, the formula is also supported by 5% niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3), which minimizes the look of dark spots, and ceramides and adaptogenic mushrooms to smooth and replenish moisture.
Best for Evening Texture: Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum
Rest assured that your skin won’t freak out when you start using Dermalogica’s Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum, thanks to a slew of moisturizing and soothing ingredients such as squalane (the second ingredient listed after water, in fact), glycerin, rice bran extract, and ceramides. Of course, the 3.5% retinoid complex shouldn’t be overlooked, especially since you’ll notice a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, texture, and large pores with regular use.
Best Retinol Serum for Beginners: Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%
Because of its unique cream-serum texture, Naturium’s Retinaldehyde Cream Serum feels akin to a lightweight moisturizer and is equal parts easy and refreshing to apply. If you have sensitive skin, the golden rule is to start with low concentrations of retinol (around 0.05%) and space out your usage. Naturium contains a low dosage of retinal, which is the natural precursor of retinoic acid and therefore is one of the strongest OTC derivatives on the market. Another star ingredient is bio-fermented oligopeptide to brighten and refine skin texture along the way.
P.S. Once your skin has developed tolerance and if you’d like to explore a higher dose, Naturium also offers a 0.10% formula.
Best for Brightening Dark Spots: Mele Even Dark Spot Control Serum
Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC, is a fan of Melē’s Even Dark Spot Control Serum, which is specially formulated for melanin-rich skin (though all skin types can benefit from the formula). She says that the hyperpigmentation-fighting fluid contains pro-retinol, a less irritating form of retinol that often combines pure retinol with fatty acids (in this case, retinyl propionate) to help reduce dark spots, as well as niacinamide to even skin tone and smooth texture.
This bi-phase, shake-to-activate serum also contains “hexylresorcinol [a molecule with melanin production-inhibiting tyrosinase], which helps to brighten skin, as well as vitamin E,” she notes. Best of all, it’s reasonably priced at $24, so you don’t have to break the bank to get the radiant results you deserve.
Best Extended-Release Retinol Serum: Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster
While Paula’s Choice makes upwards of a dozen different retinol potions, the 1% Retinol Booster is the one that wins constant raves from people who normally can’t use retinoids of any kind — and a stamp of approval from Dr. Claire Chang certainly doesn’t hurt. While 1% retinol is still no joke, a slow-release delivery system, damage-repairing peptides, and a squad of soothing extracts (including apple, oat, and licorice) exert a calming influence.
This retinol serum is designed to be combined with (a.k.a. diluted by) your favorite moisturizer or night cream, further dampening any potential irritation. Our rosacea-prone tester tested this serum every other night with a hydrating serum and consistently woke up “to smooth, sated skin that seems a bit plumper.”
Best Affordable Retinol Serum: The Inkey List Retinol Serum
Whoever said retinol products have to be expensive was absolutely wrong. We even gave The Inkey List’s Retinol Serum — which rings in at a mere $10 — a 2021 Best of Beauty Award in the Steals category to prove it. The slow-release, vitamin A blend responsible for smoothing the look of fine lines and wrinkles is 1% retistar stabilized retinol and 0.5% granactive retinoid. Squalane helps cushion the delivery of the retinol while also keeping your skin feeling extra hydrated and soothed.
Best Dermatologist-Approved Retinol Serum: Alastin Skincare Renewal Retinol .5
New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD, tells us that the retinol in Alastin Skincare’s Renewal Retinol .5 is encapsulated in lipids, which improves stability and allows for slower delivery over time. She adds that “the antioxidants, including hydroxymehtoxyphenyl decanone, support [the production of] natural hyaluronic acid.”
What else is there? Both Dr. Peredo and Dr. Claire Chang call out moisturizing silver mushroom, calming oat extract, and nourishing ceramides as additional key ingredients that ease any irritation associated with the retinol itself.
Best Retinol Serum for Wrinkles: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Night Serum
The L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Night Serum helps reduce the look of wrinkles and brightens skin over time and is packed with 0.3% pure retinol to ensure it delivers significant results. Plus, for just 30 bucks, it’s hard to beat the price — especially for this level of potency. The secret: Be mindful while incorporating it into your skin-care regimen. Start by using it two to three times per week (if you have sensitive skin, one to two times is great) and monitor how your complexion reacts. With the right routine, you’ll start to see your skin transform in weeks.
Best Retinol Serum for Dry Skin: The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
There isn’t much to this six-ingredient Retinol 0.5% in Squalane by The Ordinary — and you could say the same for its price — but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a lot to offer. While squalane, jojoba oil, and tomato extract tip skin’s moisture balance in the right direction and offer antioxidant defense, retinol gets down to business firming your face.
